Jan 2009

Made another lap around town but couldn’t find too much other than the lovely collection of beautiful houses. Headed up to the nice lookout, then out of town back up the mountain.

Arrived at the Zig Zag Railway @ Clarence, just in time for a huge rain storm complete with a bit of hail, and the last departure for the day of the train.

We were going to take Midget back to the car, when they said we could bring her along. We went in the diesel engine with modern 50s metal carriages with comfortable padded seats. We then drove through the longest tunnel I’d ever been in a train. Stopped for some great photos and then on to the next station.

There we joined the other train and the passengers who’d just come back up the hill. They swapped us over to the old steam engine and original 70 year old timber carriages. It was a fabulous trip.

yes, they even allow dogs!

We then moved on to Mount Wilson. This was the crown of the day. It’s a place that’s 8kms off the highway. Apart from avid hikers, I don’t even know if it gets a mention on the map, other than a dot with a name next to it. It was first subdivided in 1833 and once the train line went in, they were all snapped up. There are just 200 people who live up in the 1000m tranquil location.

Its surrounded by heavily timbered with temperate rain forests of sassafras, coachwood, lilli pilli, tree ferns and a thick understorey of ferns. The locals still wanting parts of home with them, set about planting huge tree lined streets of elms, oaks, London planes and Japanese maples the size of large gum trees! Its simply astonishing. The trees have grown so much its impossible to see a single house. Most are entirely hidden by the growth and under growth. Its truly a must for anyone visiting, as well as taking in a walk or two. There is even a gorge to view.

Given the place was from the beginning a holiday destination for the rich of Sydney its difficult to find out who know lives there. There are several houses with security cameras everywhere and notices saying no entry 24 hour surveillance. There was even a Turkish Bathhouse installed which is now the museum to the area. It was closed when we passed, so we weren’t able to visit. The locals even built their own church and school with their own funds. They are accessible and very gorgeous. There is also a considerably large burial area adjoining the church. Amazing place…

Stopped in Bilpin at the edge of the Wollomi National Park.

Got a late start and enjoyed a coffee at the lovely café in the main street next to the chocolate shop. After the most freezing night we’d spent in the van since I couldn’t remember, we were very happy to be welcomed by not just one, but two open fires. Of course, the poll positions right in front of the fires were already taken, so we sat as close as we could. Never thought I’d be happy to sit on an open fire in the middle of Summer, especially in Australia, but there you are!

We took off up the hill to the lookout on the edge of town and took one of the six walks. It went out to a sheer cliff. It was really steep and very pretty. The views were gorgeous and the dog had a great time.

We then went back to the Café and had their most delicious potato, leak and bacon soup. Along with some crunchy toast and a warm fire – it was delightful!

Since it was now late afternoon, we decided another movie was in order. We went to see View from Greenacres. It was a very funny Australian film with Wendy Hughes and Chris Hayward as the leads and a bit part by Steve Bisley. Very funny. About a grumpy bum who goes on a Mystery Train Trip with his long suffering wife bought by their daughter for their 40th wedding anniversary. Really funny stuff.

Decided it was time to leave this really cute spot before we moved there. Headed on out towards Lithgow.

Next stop was Hartley. It was an all but deserted heritage town. Settled in 1837 after the very successful 1813 crossing by Blaxland, Lawson and Wentworth over the mountains. There are two buildings remaining that date to 1840, one is up for lease as a café from the NSW Parks and Wildlife Dept.

There are two magnificent churches made of sandstone as well as the magnificent courthouse. There are a few other buildings scattered about, including a tour guide station that does tours of the magnificent courthouse building. It does look out of place in the desolate unloved town that Hartley has become. It looks like it should be found in the main street of Sydney due to its fabulous proportions and fabulous style. The town eventually died when the road was diverted away from the town.

We then moved on to Lithgow. Lithgow was named by Hamilton Hume in 1827 after the Governor Brisbane’s Private Secretary, William Lithgow. Its really sad when lovely little spots fall off the tourism map due to high costs and a poorly marketed tourism department. We got the Blue Mountains tourist brochure as soon as we arrived at the first town in the Blue Mountains. It’s a little A5 glossy booklet that Lithgow has the inside back cover of. They have the “You’ll Love Lithgow” and a few nice pictures and dates of their annual events, but not one line about their tourism drawcards they have on offer. Its incredibly sad.

The guy at the tourism office said it costs the shire $25,000PA to have that ad, and I think its all but wasted. Anyway glad we took the time to visit as the town has a lot to offer. A very lovely main street. An original theatre, cute shops and a few heritage sites.

Eskbank House was the home of Thomas Brown, founder of the coal mine in Lithgow. Today it’s a lovely restored site with all outbuildings appearing to be intact. Really interesting. It is also home to Australia’s first viable steel works, and Port Kembla owes its existence today to Lithgow’s leading edge technology.

We found a nice spot to stop over the road from Eskbank House.

Got a great sleep in and enjoyed a leisurely start to the day. Decided it was time to head into the touristy part of Katoomba, and the lookout and walk to the Three Sisters. It was tourist city. There was no parking within a 15 minute walk and you had to pay everywhere for parking. I dropped Steve off to take the pics and I did 3 laps around the block to pick him up. Found the Aboriginal story of the Three Sisters.

The Three Sisters
There were once three beautiful sisters who fell in love with three brothers from anther clan who were not of their skin group and they were forbidden to marry. The girls had decided they were going to run off with the boys anyway. Their spiritual elder found out of their plan and decided to turn the girls into rock till it was over. The elders confronted the other skin group and a war broke out. The spiritual elder was killed before he could turn the stones back into the girls. The elders remaining after the war tried and tried and tried to turn the back, but to no avail. So they remained in stone.

the very busy tourist lookout

We then headed to Leura which appeared to have a very cute main street. The place was crazy with holiday makers and parking was difficult, but we enjoyed the tree-lined walk into town.

The place was full of great little shops, cafes, art galleries and lots of speciality shops. It was just a block but it still took us an hour or more to visit all the shops. All the cafes were totally full. We couldn’t believe it! We decided to head back to The Carrington for lunch. We enjoyed a fabulous lunch and then headed up to Mount Victoria. Another gorgeous little town. We found the Mt Vic Flicks and enjoyed seeing a film in a cute old family cinema. They had really comfortable old deco chairs and a candy bar located in the middle of the cinema. Their mugs of tea, coffee or hot chocolate are $1 each. Everything else is reasonably priced and the admission is just $10. I have to say the screen isn’t much bigger than Kev’s projection unit, but the atmosphere is great. We saw Hunger which was about the 1981 Irish No Clothes, No Wash Prison Strike. It was an amazing film, but one that shouldn’t be seen without company. Most people stayed to watch the next movie which was The Duchess. A much less depressing film.

Had a nice quiet park in the street around the corner from the cinema. It was right between the train line and the fire brigade. Luckily they weren’t called out, so it was a relatively quiet night. There is a great train service to Sydney from Mount Victoria. I think it’s a 2 hour trip.

Surprisingly, we managed to get a good night’s sleep. It was also great to not have a hangover. We managed to find a take away coffee that was really good. Midget had a fabulous time. She cleaned up the entire beach and parks of all leftover food. She even fished out and ate a bunch of hamburger buns that had fallen into this river. They were full of sea water. She blew up like a huge balloon. Said our goodbye’s to Marty and hit the road.

marker states: this road was made by subscription was completed in ten weeks from the 25th of March 1811 by 21 Soldiers of His Majesty 73 Regiment. The second side reads: VIII Miles from Sydney.

We had a surprisingly easy drive up the mountains – the Blue Mountains. Apart from Midget farting and looking so incredibly pathetic. She can hardly move. We decided we wanted to visit Jack Thompsons’ pub (the Gearin) in Katoomba, as we’d read about how he was trying to save live music and comedy with regular shows etc. It sounds really good in the mags, but in the flesh, we arrived to a needle in the gutter where we parked and a bunch of bums parked in the outside drinking area. The food was finished for the day so we headed into town. The main street, like the rest of this mountain retreat towns were mounted on the most amazingly steep hills. All the main roads were on hills, and Katoomba took the cake.

We had to wait an extraordinary long time for a microwaved lunch, at a forgettable café and then wandered around the town. We staggered down the hill and then back up again. It was a really hot day, so we were avoiding being in the sun. With my sunburn starting to peel from watching the Sydney to Hobart, I was happy to stay out of the sun. We left Sydney at 35o and Katoomba was 25o so we were much happier, but being higher up in the sky (thus closer to the sun) we were still hot! (I’m sure you all know I was never very good at science.) We then discovered The Carrington Hotel. A stately 1882 hotel that has spent 8 years in restoration and reopened 10 years ago. Its simply stunning. Amazing chandeliers hang and there’s even a stain glass domed ceiling in the bar. Several restaurants and an obligatory ballroom. It’s a credit to its current owners who must be nearly broke under the renos. You can stay for as little as $125pn midweek. Just down the road is a gorgeous chocolate shop and tea rooms. Its pretty much original inside with booths and old timber furniture. Its really cute. The town also had the most fabulous second hand bookshop, Chekhovs Three Sisters. It was the best we’d seen. We found some great books.

Found a fabulous spot resting on a crest of the cliff in a very quiet spot…

Awoke early to all the early morning fishermen turning up to fish. A few parking spots came and went, but basically they never got cold. Took an early morning swim in the sea baths, ate breakfast and took a stroll up to the point. Midget was full of beans and thoroughly enjoyed playing with all the other dogs en-route interspersed with frequent swims on the beach.

Decided to give Doyle’s a spin for lunch, given it was the last day of the year and all… Booked for lunch. The que had already formed when we arrived and we took an upstairs inside table over looking the water. Can’t say we were all that impressed with the food. It was okay, but nothing to write home about. @ $105 for two fish & chips and two drinks, we didn’t think we’d be back there again! And what’s amazing is that they must have seated about 200 people and they were qued out the door!

Midget stayed with Martyn while we were at lunch. I think she wined the whole time we were away. Martyn was off for a sleep (since partying till 5am this morning) and we were knackered too…

Arrived at Martyn's in time for a quick dinner before the 9pm fireworks for the kids. There were 1.5 million people expectected to watch the fireworks that were to cost $5 million! They said it was just $4 per person! The early ones were fabulous to watch, and we thoroughly enjoyed our vantage point from his balcony.

The atmosphere at Watsons Bay was just as the general atmosphere of Watsons Bay, very relaxed. Apart from a few kids wanting to expend some anger on each other, the place was great fun to be, and a whole lot less stressful than right in the city. It was alcohol free and closed off till 1am so once you got in, that is if you got in, you couldnt leave till 1am. No toilets or otherwise. We did see on TV that there were tent sites being sold at a good vantage point close to the city for $300 for the night. They showed pictures of rows of little tents along the foreshore. It was really funny. We certainly wern't as close, but it was the very relaxed and friendly atmosphere that made it feel like home, only the most amazing fireworks I'd ever seen.

It was hard to get good pictures at night, but this is the best we had...

the view from Martyn's balcony

from the 9pm fireworks