A Travellerspoint blog

Aug 2008

Ey Karumba Its Hot!

Day 83

sunny 35 °C
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Since leaving Darwin, today was our first sight of water for some time. It was lovely to discover this pretty little spot. It reminds me of what I imagined Mandurah to be in the late 60s. A small fibro shack town of a few neatly kept beach houses, several caravan parks and little cabins that wouldn’t pass today’s building code. But the place has a great feel to it. For Eastern staters who don’t get to see the sun set over the water, the Sunset Bar in Karumba Point was the popular place to be.

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There are a few deli’s a supermarket and several petrol places in both Karumba and Karumba Point. It seems to be thriving due to the local Century Mine’s loading facility being located right in the gulf. We also heard mention of some 6 tons of Barra out of just one creek being shipped out annually. The locals have also setup their own Barra breading ground. They grow fledglings and then transfer them to the best breading grounds around the local area to maintain the numbers.

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Posted by cssc 30.08.2008 9:15 PM Archived in Australia Comments (0)

Quamby – Normanton

Day 82

sunny 34 °C
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Got an early start given the hangovers we were supporting. We were the second to leave and there were a few saw heads floating around. We said a fond farewell to Quamby and headed off into the heat of the early morning. The countryside was magnificent leaving Quamby. Lovely large rocky outcrops and lush green trees.

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Midget with her Quamby Pub companions. 12 week old Healer, and 7 month old monster! They had fun playing together.

Within an hour of leaving Quamby we were back to grass plains and the Matilda Highway was switching intermittently between one and two lanes of highway. Arrived at the half way point of the Burke & Wills Roadhouse around lunch time. It was a pretty boring place. I was expecting some interesting history, photos etc, but nothing but cheapskate pensioners refuelling with the $1.78/L prices and pulling out their thermos and their loaves of bread. Maybe they new something we were about to find out. The food was pretty bad.

Arrived in Normanton around 5pm. It’s a cute town with a few lovely old buildings and wide streets. Normanton’s claim to fame is the stunning Gulflander Railway. The 1870’s rail station is a real gem and the train trip to Croydon or just the short hop and return is apparently a must do. The building looks entirely original and its just overgrown by beautiful plants and lovely brolgas coming in for some bread from the owner. What a spot!

Steve fished from just before sunset till about midnight from the old bridge. The town have spent up huge turning the old single lane bridge for the highway into a fishing bridge. From both ends there are fish gutting tables, BBQs and taps ever 20m or so on the bridge. There are also shady seating dotted all the way along the bridge. This has got to be a fisherman’s dream come true. Given how many locals and visitors frequent the place, it appears to be money well spent!

The day was really hot and humid and the evening bought lovely cooling breezes to the van. The evening also bought a plague of crickets many of which were 3” or more long! One long term resident was telling Steve of the croc seen at the water’s edge some 50m from where we’d parked who was building a nest on the other side of the Norman River. This was his/her river and all that was in it. Being our millionth “Barra Capital of Australia” that we’d visited, they weren’t catching much last night, but Steve said a real pro of a local caught 2 within 5 minutes of arriving. It appears that locals get better with the more practice they get. This guy must just live on them. Many still say its still a little cold for the Barra to bite, but this guy seemed to have the knack.

Posted by cssc 30.08.2008 8:32 PM Archived in Australia Comments (0)

Mount Isa – Cloncurry - Quamby

Day 81

sunny 33 °C
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Had a difficult night parked at a caravan park very close the copper mine. I spent most of the night drinking water to try and unblock my nose, but to no avail. Have to get out of here. Its affecting our health. I don’t know how people can live here.

It does appear to be quite an affluent town though. Saw a Lotus driving out to the Mine on our way into “The Isa” as the locals call it. Also saw a baby Hummer and most of the cars are large 4WD vehicles and new. Most of the properties seem to be in the $350k price range, so not much cheaper than home.

Also learned that Isa is in water restriction mode. Odd street numbers can water on odd dates of the month and evens on even.

A story in the Brisbane paper today said that Cloncurry, (our next destination, approx 121km E of Isa), will be the first QLD town to have water trucked in. It appears climate change is hitting QLD bad. They say the cost will be millions and it’s a very small town. With a 33oC temperature forecast today, I’d hate to see how bad it gets in summer!

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Cloncurry is a very cute town. With the traditional wide streets, lovely old buildings with large verandahs and I think I counted 4 double storey pubs! Originally settled in the late 1880’s as a Copper mining town, it seems to have a thriving community, and is largely supported by the large numbers of stations surrounding it in every direction. There were many people in town purchasing one or two shopping trolleys full of stuff; 8 loaves of bread, 5 3L cartons of milk, and large sizes of just about every product you could think off. Actually the IGA in Mt Isa also had 1kg jars of vegemite, peanut butter, giant bags of lollies, 20kg bags of flour, sugar etc. Sizes generally not seen in metropolitan equivalent shops.

We decided to head out of town to a rest area heading north on the Matilda Highway towards Normanton. The sun was going down and we hit the first dot on the map north called Quamby and stopped. It was a cute little pub in the middle of nowhere and we stayed the night and joined in the party. What a great little find. The most interesting pub I’ve seen on all our travels. The gem of them all. Small, local and not full of touristy stuff.

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We were welcomed by the owners, an ex Painter and his wife Linda. They including his two brothers bought the pub for about $160,000! It was a pretty run down ramshackle old pub, complete with concrete everywhere, 60’s bathroom tiles for the sides and top of the bar and other horrid alterations. They had managed to change the place back into something fitting for the era. They’d installed lovely solid tree top counter tops, reinstalled timber floors, polished up the original timber French doors and added a huge timber decking to the outside area. In three years they had completely transformed the place. This was going to be even better in the next few years. We were told by regulars that a party of 150 on a Saturday night is not unheard of!

The other “locals” for the evening were Sam and his friends from The Isa for a night off from the town, Gerry the ringer from the station “down the road”, a Jillaroo from Melbourne who’s working during the season at a “station down the road”, a crazy yank driller, a geo and a TA also from a “station down the road”. There were also another couple from Yeppoon who were just returning from a weeks fishing holiday with friends at a station on the gulf, and others who came and went throughout the night. Those that were from the assorted stations down the road were driving home drunk as there were no cops in this neck of the woods, and the rest were staying in the hotel grounds in dongas, or sleeping in the vehicles.

The owners also “employed” a couple of girls from the station over the road to help behind the bar. Their payment was in drink. After the drillers lot started poll dancing on bars poll we knew it was going to be a good night. We were told that we’d have to join in as they stay open till the last one is standing. By midnight when we’d had enough there had been many a glass broken, many a stool fallen from and a few drunk barmaids reaching their limits and we retired to our van. What a night we had. Everyone was really interesting and had a story to tell. They were also really interested in talking and chatting to everyone there. This is a special place, but don’t tell anyone!

Posted by cssc 30.08.2008 8:10 PM Archived in Australia Comments (0)

Mount Isa Day 2

Day 80

sunny 33 °C
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Had a wander around town and visited the Tourist Bureau where they have two museums and an underground mine shaft tour. Their huge new $12m complex takes the pride and place of the town.

The only difficult part of the town is trying to deal with the dust created by their mines (located right next to the town). We both have blocked noses pretty much permanently from all the dust.

Took a trip up to the lookout to get an overall view of the town from the lovely ranges that surround the town. The surrounding coolabah country is really very attractive.

The not so nice view of Mount Isa
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The nice view of Mount Isa
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Posted by cssc 30.08.2008 8:07 PM Archived in Australia Comments (0)

NT – Mount Isa

Day 79

sunny 33 °C
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Today we cross the state line. It was interesting as the countryside still appeared the same, yet it was different. One thing we did notice was the speed dropping back from 130km in NT to 110km in QLD.

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The weather is still really hot. We arrived at Camooweal (the first town over the border) around lunch time. Stopped at the quaint old Camooweal Post Office that has been sold off and is now the Post Office Agency, Local Supermarket, Library, Art Supplies, Hardware Store and Electrical Store 5 for the Town. The lady who obviously owned the store was so eager to please and nothing was too much trouble. It was really lovely to stop at a place that really valued old fashioned service.

We arrived just after 5pm in Mount Isa. It was a shock to the system to see such a big and dirty town. With a population of 22,000 its quite large, and had all the services pretty much to make it comfortable.

Really happy to finally being back in mobile and internet range. We heard from others on the road during the last few days, that Telstra finally admitted that only about 70% of Australia is actually covered by mobile service, but our experience so far has been that around 50% of the places we’ve visited have had service.

I really feel for the people in the bush now. We take so much for granted in the city. Complaining that we cant get 7KB speeds in Mandurah etc. We’ve hardly had mobile service since we left home! Steve is of course, quite happy about this as we’re saving a fortune on phone bills! Also surprised ourselves in that we downgraded to a 1Gig internet account for our travels, and due to lack of service, we’ve not managed to get over that!

Had dinner at The Caffy, a private club, which are huge in QLD as it’s a way around the liquor laws. If you have a private club, where you have to be a member (or visitors – usually twice in one year you can be a visitor or you have to join). They usually have cheap meals and drinks and are full of gambling machines.

Posted by cssc 30.08.2008 8:04 PM Archived in Australia Comments (0)

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